Glossary

Ascorbyl glucoside (Vitamin C)

Ascorbyl glucoside is a stable form of vitamin C combined with glucose. When properly formulated and absorbed into skin, it breaks down to ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C). It functions as an antioxidant and works well with other replenishing and antioxidant ingredients to preserve key substances skin needs to look smoother, brighter, and younger. It makes your skin look awesome. Boosts the production of collagen, which keeps skin firm, brightens the complexion, fights the free radicals that cause premature aging, lightens discolorations and prevents UV damage (especially when paired with vitamin E and ferulic acid). If your skin is sensitive, vitamin C may irritate it. Also, it can make skin more susceptible to sun damage, so use it with sunscreen or, better, at night.

Aloe Barbadensis

Leaf Aloe Barbadensis leaf juice, or Aloe Vera as it is more commonly known, is extracted from the leaves of the plant Aloe. It has been used medicinally for several thousands of years in many cultures. This plant, which carry the status of super star, contains an impressive number of vitamins, including A, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B12, C, E, Choline and Folic Acid. These vitamins are great for protecting the skin from free radicals, dangerous compounds that cause signs of premature aging due to damaging effects on the DNA and other cell structures. The herb also contains enzymes, which are the life-principle in every live. These organic molecules rejuvenate aged tissues and promote healthy skin. Scientists have shown that skin can absorb the key ingredients of Aloe up to 7 layers deep. Thanks to this capacity, Aloe effectively stimulates proteolytic enzyme action in skin tissue, stimulating fibroblast cells that manufacture collagen. Moreover, because of the aforementioned enzymatic breakdown of dead skin cells from Aloe, it is an excellent cleansing and detoxifying agent, that has ability to remove dead skin cells and toxins while purifying the pores.

Avocados

The avocado Persea americana – old nomenclature: Persea gratissima – is a native of Central and South America. It was used by the Aztecs, Incas and Mayans as a food, but they also spread the fruit pulp on their skin like a modern face mask. Many early skin creams were described as skin foods. They were said to penetrate and feed the skin, plump it up, reduce wrinkles and generally make the face look younger. The ingredients in skin foods that ‘fed’ the skin were oils and fats with the best skin food generally considered to be lanolin, described as being ‘very penetrating’. Although a vegetable oil, it has high penetrative qualities and a high vitamin content. It is stated to contain vitamins A, D and E in addition to lecithin.

Cucumber

Many studies have shown that Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract contain many potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory nutrients. The most important benefits of cucumbers in skincare are: Cucumbers contain Vitamin K which improves skin elasticity (Researchers from the University of Maastricht, the Netherlands have recently proved this), repairs dry and damaged skin, pH-value is identical with the human skin and lubricates the skin, gives the skin a soft and smooth appearance.

Citric Acid

Citric Acid is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA). It exists in a variety of fruits and vegetables like lemons, limes, oranges, tangerines and blackberries but can also be made from fermented sugar solutions. At room temperature, it is a white, crystalline powder. Citric Acid is used in cosmetics and personal care products to adjust their ph balance. In addition, it can inhibits tyrosinase to even out the skin tone. It is also used to impart a lemon-like fragrance to a product. At high concentration shows typical AHA properties (moisturizing, peeling, smoothing, anti-wrinkle effects).

Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Seed

Extract Rich in vitamin C, it is a powerful antioxidant that protects skin cells from free radical damage. It is also used as a mild preservative in many skin care products. Grapefruit Seed Extract (GSE) is a powerful broad-spectrum citrus based anti-microbial that can be used to extend product shelf life and protect personal skin care formulations against bacteria and fungus. GSE possesses strong antiseptic, germicidal, antibacterial, fungicidal and anti-viral properties and acts as an antioxidant. Charcoal Powder Throughout the day, toxins from the world around us clog our pores. When your pores aren’t clear, neither is your complexion. Activated charcoal when used in a face mask binds to and helps pull the dirt out of your pores, making them less visible (it’s the oil and dirt that makes them appear bigger). This leaves your face feeling fresh. It removes contaminants and toxins from whatever it is in contact with due to its large surface area on a microscopic level causing it to have important absorption properties. Therefore, the idea is that it traps impurities before or while they are in the body before causing unwanted damage such as acne or other skin health issues.

Coenzyme Q10 (COQ10)

Coenzyme Q10is a molecule produced in the body. It aids mitochondria during energy production. It is similar to other pseudovitain compounds because it is vital for survival, but does not necessarily need to be supplemented.

Levels of CoQ10 in the body decrease as we age. CoQ10 is found in meat, fish and whole grains. The amount of CoQ10 found in these dietary sources, however, isn't enough to significantly increase CoQ10 levels in your body. Several diseases are associated with low COQ10 levels, including fibromyalgia and the aftermath of a heart attack, known as post-myocardial infarction.

Collagen

Many cosmetic formulations have collagen as a major component because of its significant benefits as a natural humectant and moisturizer. Collagen is a protein present in all the body’s organs and tissues. It provides the matrix that sustains the body’s structure. Collagen’s main function is to sustain tendons, skin and cartilage. It provides integrity, firmness and elasticity to their structures. As we get older, our body's collagen production reduces which can result in an increase of wrinkles and fine lines and decreasing smoothness and suppleness of the skin. Fish collagen peptide is becoming the collagen of choice for skin care supplements to improve skin smoothness, elasticity, moisture, and to also slow down the formation of wrinkles and fine lines.

Glycerin Vegetable

Glycerin is a natural triglyceride derived from plant sources such as soy, palm and coconut oils. It is a clear odourless liquid that has a jelly-like consistency. Composed of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen, vegetable glycerin is an organic compound that is water soluble, sweet tasting and completely safe and non-toxic. This medication is used as a moisturizer to treat or prevent dry, rough, scaly, itchy skin and minor skin irritations. Emollients are substances that soften and moisturize the skin and decrease itching and flaking. Dry skin is caused by a loss of water in the upper layer of the skin. Emollients/moisturizers work by forming an oily layer on the top of the skin that traps water in the skin. Humectants, including glycerin, lecithin, and propylene glycol, draw water into the outer layer of skin. Retaining moisture is vital for keeping skin in its best condition. It also draws oxygen into the skin, which is beneficial for anti-aging as well. There are many factors that cause dry skin and accelerate aging, and vegetable glycerine is an effective agent against these elements.

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in the body, where it serves to maintain the structure of the skin and promote elasticity - encouraging that “plumpness” that proves so important in wrinkle prevention. It is an extremely powerful humectant, with the ability to attract and hold over 1000 times its own weight in water, helping skin stay young and healthy. The natural concentration of hyaluronic acid in the skin starts decreasing as early as age eighteen, but preventative measures against its loss can slow the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Botanical hyaluronic acid is an essential component for skin that needs hydration, tissue repair and protection. When applied topically plant based hyaluronic acid penetrates the dermis to secure moisture and in turn support the skin's elasticity and structure. Not only is hyaluronic acid directly correlated to increases in skin moisture, it can adjust its moisture absorption rate based on the humidity of the environment. The result is skin that feels soft and looks plump and firm.

Jojoba oil

The jojoba is a plant from Arizona and Mexico where it is cultivated for the wax (called generally "jojoba oil") contained in its seeds. We also call it " Desert gold " because it grows in dry places, in the blazing sun. The seeds are called "almonds" or "beans" because they are of an olive size and are collected during autumn. We extract the jojoba oil from it, a kind of liquid wax. For the skin, the jojoba allows to settle sebum secretion. It is also ideal for sensitive, dry and acned skins. Moreover, it reveals moisturizing and soothing virtues. Indeed, jojoba oil creates a non-greasy film which protects the skin natural hydration against outside attacks such as cold or drought. Besides, the jojoba oil is used as antioxidant to protect cosmetic formulations. Studies have documented that jojoba improves the feel of skin, and provides a substantial long-acting, 24-hour skin hydration effect. Jojoba contains nutrients like vitamin E and B, as well as minerals like chromium, copper, and zinc, which all nourish and protect skin from environmental stressors. It is recommended for people with sensitive skin because of its gentle nature. Applying jojoba to compromised skin can help keep it moist. Because it is the perfect moisturizer, jojoba can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, which makes it a perfect anti-aging treatment.

Matrixyl 3000

Matrixyl 3000 is an anti wrinkle innovation developed by cosmetic chemical manufacturer Sederma. Sederma claims the product restores skin’s metabolism of youth by simulating synthesis of Collagen-I, -IV, -VII, -XVII and Nidogen-I proteins. Matrixyl combines two peptides, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl oligopeptide, resulting in an entirely new super peptides. Numerous skin care brands incorporate into their formulas and usually combine the ingredient with other anti wrinkle ingredients. The recommended dosage of Matrixyl is 2%, however, often manufacturers use lower or higher percentages based on their budgets. Matrixyl 3000 is a popular ingredient that is infused inside many anti-aging and wrinkle fighting skincare products. Manufactured and distributed by the Sederma Corporation, Matrixyl 3000 is the improved version of the original Matrixyl ingredient that was designed to treat mature skin. Unlike other anti-aging ingredients, Matrixyl 3000 promises that it is more than a short-term treatment for skin.

PhytoCellTec™ Alp Rose

PhytoCellTec™ Alp Rose is a cosmetic ingredient based on stem cells of alpine rose leaves.

The alpine rose is a typical Swiss flowering plant from the Alps. It has bright pink blossoms and grows at altitudes up to 3200 m. Its evergreen leaves are especially resistant to high UV radiation and extreme dryness and cold. The sturdy leaves are a shiny green, even once the snow has melted in the spring. This phenomenon is due to the presence of a special protection protein called dehydrin in the leaves of the alpine rose.

The effect of PhytoCellTec™ Alp Rose combines two important approaches. Using plant stem cells delays skin aging by protecting vital skin stem cells, keeping the skin looking youthful longer, and giving it a better and more vital appearance. At the same time, PhytoCellTec™ Alp Rose protects the skin using special protective ingredients from this extremely resistant alpine plant.

Shea Butter

Shea butter is a vegetable fat obtained from the fruit of a tree native to Africa, Butyrospermum parkii. Shea butter is primarily composed of fatty acids such as stearic and oleic acids. Because its structure and function resemble that of the lipid content of skin, shea butter is considered to be a Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). As an NMF, it helps keep the intercellular structure of the epidermis intact, and effectively keeps bacteria out, facilitates the skin's healing process, prevents dermal irritation and regenerates the skin. It's particularly useful for those looking to improve the appearance of dry skin, or those having to combat cold winter weather. It also works as an anti-inflammatory, helping to soothe itchy, irritated or sunburnt skin. Best of all, it naturally absorbs UVB rays to protect the skin from the sun and has antioxidant properties as potent as those of green tea and olive.

Vitamin E (d-alpha Tocopheryl Acetate)

Tocopheryl acetate is a fat-soluble vitamin that can be isolated from vegetable oils. Its substantiated benefits include enhancing the efficacy of active sunscreen ingredients, reducing the formation of free radicals from exposure to UV rays, promoting the healing process, strengthening the skin's barrier function, protecting the skin barrier's lipid balance, and reducing transepidermal water loss. Attributed with antioxidant, anti-aging, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory and enhanced SPF properties, tocopherol acetate is valued as a skincare active. As an antioxidant superstar, vitamin E is one of the most well-researched antioxidants. Not only does Vitamin E improves skin health but it also fixes damaged skin. It repairs damaged cells and rejuvenates skin youth.

Witch hazel

Witch hazel is a plant. The leaf, bark, and twigs are used to make medicine. You may see a product called witch hazel water (Hamamelis water, distilled witch hazel extract). This is a liquid that is distilled from dried leaves, bark, and partially dormant twigs of witch hazel. Witch Hazel is a compliment for fine skin care. It helps to smooth wrinkles, cleanse and tone the skin and prevent oily build up in the tissues of the skin. Its antiseptic properties help to keep skin clear of pimples and acne and heal wounds.